Saturday, October 10, 2015

Mehrauli Archaelogical Park (Ekaant, Epic Channel, 1 October 2015)

I missed some of this episode. The anchor was aided by a woman called Nidhi who conducts heritage walks in the park.

A lot of tourists come to visit Kutub Minar annually. But this park, which is very close by, doesn't see much of a footfall. The most ancient structure here is the resting place of the Turkish Sultan Balban (who ascended Delhi's throne in 1246). It might have been constructed around 1270 and contains no sarcophagus. No one knows where it is. The resting place of his son, Mohammad Khan, is nearby. He had died near Lahore in a battle with the Mangols. It is said that his death shocked Balban to the core and he died soon afterwards. The writings of Ibn-E-Batuta mention that Balban was deputy of Sultan Nasiruddin Mahmud and poisoned the Sultan to usurp the throne. But Tarikh-e-Firozeshahi, which is considered a more authentic historical document of that time, says that though Balban was ambitious and had gotten rid of most of his enemies, he has nothing to do with Sultan's murder. Upon ascending the throne, Balban enforced a lot of disciplinary rules - no one must laugh in the royal court, no one must talk loudly and everyone must obey the royal customs. Two of his most important rules were that whoever entered the royal court had to bow to the Sultan and kiss his feet.

When the anchor asked Nidhi about the fragrance that hung about the whole place she replied that it was because of the perfumes that the people apply here in hopes of getting their wishes fulfilled by the Jinns who are believed to inhabit this area. She recounted a personal experience she once had when she came to this area quite early in the morning with one of her friends. They saw a man wearing white clothes right in the middle of the road. His clothes were emitting very strong fragrance and he had an aura about his face. He smiled at her and told her that whatever she asks for will be granted. She told the anchor that that's what happened.

Another important structure here is Jamali Kamali. It houses a mausoleum and a mosque. The word 'Jamali' means a handsome guy in Urdu. In 16th century Delhi, there was a trader who also was a Sufi saint and a poet (Shaayar). His sobriquet was Jamali. Though he was from the same era as Kabir, Surdas and Tulsidas, his writing was so good that he stood on his own when it came to popularity. This was the time when the Lodhis were losing their power and the Mughals gaining theirs. Jamali died when Humayun was in Gujarat. Some say that it was Humayun who constructed Jamali's Mausoleum. These days no one is allowed inside it. From the outside there is nothing distinguishing about the mausoleum but it is said to be very beautiful inside with lot of engravings everywhere, especially on the ceiling which is said to look like a beautiful Persian carpet. 16 of Jamali's couplets have been engraved on 4 walls. Two There are 2 graves here - one of Jamali and the other one is of Kamali. No one knows for sure who this Kamali was, whether it was a man or a woman. Some say Jamali-Kamali were teacher-student, some say they were close friends and some say that they were a gay couple.

There is a mosque to the south of the mausoleum. It is from Jamali's time and might have bee constructed by him. The first proof that this area was called as Jamali-Kamali can be traced to the 19th century but history is mum about why and how these names are linked together.

Very few people know that there is a step well here. Not many details are available about its history. Though it is called Raajonki Baoli (Well of the Kings), what it actually means is the well of the stonemasons (the word for it is 'Raaj' in Hindi). It is said that these masons used to stay here, do their cooking here and use this place for social networking. The ladies and gents used to come at different times.

This complex houses another structure of historical importance - the mausoleum of Kuli Khan, the son of Akbar's governess Mahamanga. Kuli Khan was a general in Mughal armed forces. This mausoleum, which was perhaps constructed in the 17th century, represents two different periods in history. In the 20th century, Mughal emperor Bahadur Shah the 2nd, had built a palace in Mehrauli. Thomas Metcalf, who was an agent of the British East India Company, had been appointed here to keep an eye on the Mughals. When the Mughal princes came to Mehrauli, Metcalf too shifted here and turned Kuli Khan's mausoleum into a Leisure House by constructing gardens and big buildings around it. He would himself stay here and give it on rent to honeymooning couples.

After 1857, the British brought new ways of ruling in India. In 20th century, when New Delhi came into existence, the population started growing there. And then Mehrauli, along with its historical monuments slowly went into oblivion.

No comments: