Wednesday, March 18, 2015

Mindrolling Monastery, Clement Town, Dehradun

We were on our way to the last destination in Dehradun. The original monastery in Tibet, built in 1718, is presently under reconstruction after suffering damage over the years. The work for this Monastery in Clement Town began in 1965. We had to travel considerable distance to reach it. On the final road, our car went straight instead of turning right. Just as it passed a shop for Tibetan handicrafts, I noticed two gentlemen standing at the door. They were smiling and gesturing for us to take the right turn instead. I smiled back, acknowledged their help and asked the driver to turn back. This was, and always will, remain my first-most impression of the monastery.

I am not sure what I was expecting as I never been to a Monastery before. But thanks to NatGeo, I have taken a look at some without living the living room :) I was, however, amazed at the immense structure that loomed in front us as we started walking in the general direction of the monastery. At the entrance itself you will see a couple of boards describing various aspects related to the religion and different religious structures. After that, there is an arrangement to leave your footwear before you enter.






But the first thing that strikes you is the fact that the whole area is very clean. Of course, there are more boards warning visitors about what not to do than I remember from my school days. But knowing what Indian tourists are capable of doing to a place, I think they are absolutely necessary. If the information on the internet is to be believed this temple is about 220 feet in height. The statues of Budhha – one on the ground floor and another outside the main temple – are huge. The first three floors have paintings and statues that are so intricately made that it can easily take half a day to observe everything in detail.

While the garden and shops are open to public on all days, the temple in open only on Sunday so we got lucky. The open circulat balcony on the 4th floor gives a panoramic view of the Doon valley.












The garden in the premises is well-maintained. There are 3-4 huge prayer wheels (you are supposed to turn them in clockwise direction only). I attempted to turn one of them assuming it will be easy to do so. But it was pretty heavy and I had to almost lean with my whole body on it before it moved even an inch. Surprisingly, I couldn’t think of a single thing to ask beyond ‘let there be peace and happiness in my life’. The whole experience was amazing!

Normally, when I am traveling, I avoid visiting the toilets unless I am in a reasonably good eating place. And this spotlessly clean area fulfilled the condition so I decided to use the toilet facility – only to realize that the cleanliness stopped at the entrance of the toilets. They were extremely filthy and smelly. :(

We roamed about the area that houses stores only to find many of them closed. Only one cafe was open – and sold tea made of teabags at Rs. 35! The shops stacked items that would have needed check-in during air travel. Nothing caught my fancy in the jewellery department. I bought agarbatti sticks for Rs. 20. Unfortunately, they are devoid of any fragrance so every time I light them up I have to console myself thinking that they are purifying the air. :(



I noticed two very disturbing trends in the visitors that I must mention here. One, there are clear instructions to maintain silence on the circular steps of the temple. And yet, people were talking – sometimes very loudly. Is it so difficult to remain silent for 10 minutes or so? Or have we lost any sense of respect for other religions?

Two, young people were giving poses that were very inappropriate against the backdrop of the Budhha statue. I saw the same devil-may-care attitude when a group of teenagers set about turning one of the prayer wheels as if it was a toy. Just then two monks happened to pass by. The older of the two took a look at them and moved on. The younger one stayed behind and stood watching them but said nothing. The youngsters got the message and stopped turning the wheel sheepishly. But then they proceeded to have a mega photo session at the steps – totally ignoring the people who were waiting to turn the wheel and click a few snaps. It was only when I loudly remarked that people are waiting, that they wrapped up and moved on.

I don’t want to sound sanctimonious but this was not a tourist place. It was a place of worship that a religion holds sacred. And it is our duty to make sure that we conduct ourselves accordingly. I remembered what a friend had said to me recently – these days people don’t stop to enjoy a moment, they are in a hurry to capture it so they can upload it. The ‘Kodak Moment’ of yesteryear has turned into a ‘Facebook Moment’.  Very sad, but very true. :(


It was getting dark as we were walking back to the parking lot – our last evening in Dehradun. A heartbreaking moment for any tourist who has fallen in love with the place. I don’t know if I will ever come here again. Most probably not.

But this sure was a perfect ending to our sojourn to this land of the Gods – the Devbhumi.

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